Australia Day = Lamb

Well why argue with Slammin' Sam...

After casting my eyes over the results of the PerthNow poll regarding Australia's national dish whilst hungover, I not only felt sick, but I also felt disappointed. Disappointed that a 'Meat Pie', which is clearly a British influence, nudged out our humble Lamington. Quite convincingly at that. Another dishonourable mention is 'Salt and Pepper Squid' ?!? Whoever chose this should be sent to xmas island and fed nothing but lamb, emu export and whipped repeatedly with dugites until they apologise, along with their good for nothin' spag bog friends.

Results...

Anywho, I digress, there was no decision to make for me last night, lamb shoulder, bone-in, braised.
After 4 hours of gentle tickling with a sprig of rosemary, she was consumed in all her glory.

Brioche, Brioche, Brioche!

Its hard to beat the smell of brioche baking in the oven, on this occasion a sweetened dough laced with lashings of Indo vanilla bean.

Accompanied by a fresh batch of Thermomix butter and vanilla and valencia orange marmalade, I found myself giggling like a schoolgirl.

Sous Vide at home

After donating approximately a week of my life reading the earth shattering thread on eGullet dedicated to all things sous vide, i thought why not try this at home...

Turns out its pretty easy (disclaimer: results will be significantly worse than what you may receive if Thomas Keller is the technician), all you need is the following relatively accessible gadgets...

A food saver. This is the cheapest way to vac-pack ur food for the water bath. The biggest issue here however is getting liquids in e.g. marinade. One such solution is to pre-freeze the marinade or oil or ... But there will still be occasions when you just can get the bag to seal. The foodsaver will suck any liquid out during the vacuum process into its internals, rendering it into a chocolate teapot.
The chamber vacuum units use a different method to vac-pack, this is what the restaurants would be using, the downside is the $1000 you part with.

A commercial rice cooker. You may be able to get away with a large non-commercial unit or even a large slow cooker, but the beauty here is the simplicity of the unit. In my case 30 cups so large enough for 20 litres or so easy. Also the important 'feature' of this unit is the mechanical on/off switch. You dont want a unit with a digital display or button as this will be using fuzzy logic. The mechanical on/off switch enables the next piece of kit to effectively control the operation of the rice cooker.

Next piece of kit being... A PID controller. This will be a familiar device to most sparky's. Its used to hold temperatures and control a heating element. In this case a rice cooker. These can be purchased online pretty easily.

To hook this up couldnt be easier. Plug PID into wall, plug rice cooker into PID (not into wall), fill rice cooker with desired amount of water, place PID temperature sensor into water, set target temperature on the PID, wait.
The PID will measure the current temp via the sensor, from tap it may be roughly 30 degrees, if we've set a target temp of 60 degrees the PID will turn 'on' the rice cooker. The rice cooker will operate as normal heating the water, when the PID notices the temperature has been reached, it will cut 'off' the rice cooker. And so on, activating and deactivating when needed.

These rice cookers all have pretty good insulation so once the desired temp has been reached there is little fluctuation, apart from when you add your prepared items of course.

Now I must admit I havent given this as much use as I could, I'm not convinced on the way it cooks red meat proteins... And should you caramalise the meat before or after the waterbath? However I'm happy to keep trying for the perfect combination.
One thing is for sure it is unbeatable with eggs, 62 degrees for 1 hour, the result is a quivering white with a yolk that has a consistency of soft butter. Or see my previous Camembert post to show the setup's versatility.

While its great to play with different cooking temps for different cuts of meat, and in some cases for extraordinary amounts of time, you need to be careful of the food safety aspect. Any cooking below 60 degrees can be pretty dangerous. Also any meat which is not eaten immediately (or soon enough) after its removed from the waterbath is pretty dangerous. Plenty on info online regarding health tips for sous vide cooking, I wont get into it here, it gets way too technical.

Oh and ever wonder how to get that perfectly cooked trout which looks raw but is completely cooked? 40 degrees sous vide.

Commis at work

My first foray into a professional kitchen came on Saturday when I was lucky enough to be allowed in to an unnamed establishment in Perth. This happens to be one of my favourite places to dine and home of some of the most exquisite dishes in Perth in one of the most casual unpretentious settings.

Pleasantly surprised that my email offering to help with mise en place was not either ignored or returned with flames, I arrived promptly in my whites with a smile so distinguishable I was in danger of getting lipstick on my earlobes. Chef greets me at the door wondering who the hell I am, 'Oh, um, hi, I'm the software developer wanna be chef whos completely untrained and intends on getting in the way for the next 5 hours'. 'Ah I completely forget' chef murmurs. I enter...

Really thats where the uncomfortable bits ceased, from that point on I was introduced to a young chap who I can only imagine was his line cook, then I was immediately tasked with blanching and peeling tomatoes.
This was followed by preparing tomato concasse, crumbing croquettes, straining stocks, baking tuiles, shucking oysters, bearding mussels, assembling various amuse-bouche and all of a sudden 6 hours had passed.

The whole time I was involved in tasting the result of my prep, seeing the finished (or nearly finished) products. Really good fun. A great bunch of guys. The idea was for me to get the hell out of these before service, so I did so. A small kitchen on a Saturday night really doesnt need a monkey standing there like the F.A. Cup.

The whole time all I was repeating over and over in my head was 'DONT CUT YOURSELF, IT WONT BE COOL'. So I managed to demonstrate decent knife skills and avoid drawing blood, plus I got a call up for next Saturday.

To be honest I dont really know where this is heading, nor do I really know where I want it to head. For the moment I keen to learn as much as I can from these guys, maybe help in a service or two. From there I'm not sure. I cant exactly change gears and get anatomy-deep into a low paying hard working glorified dishpig role. Doesnt make sense for now.

What does make sense is rabbit rillettes served on brioche with a dijon gratin.

Vader's 1st Birthday

After a busy morning at the park consisting of ass sniffing, marking territory, chasing balls and getting body slammed by a weimaraner, a dog need's to replenish those glycogen stores and get ready for this afternnon battle.

Enter lactose-free scrambled eggs on toast with sardines.

Camembert - Stage 2

Well the cheeses stayed in the cave for 6 days in total; each day the ice brick was replaced and the cheeses were carefully turned.

The penicillium coating was clearly apparent after the first couple of days but by the 4th or 5th was completely coating the cheese with a pretty even consistency. So I decided to leave one day further from then to make sure it was ripe.

Then it was time to rap, yeah mutha fker! das was up!
The wrapped cheeses (using proper wrapping paper = important), then pop into the fridge for the aging process. From what I've read they can pretty much be eaten within the next week or two, but patience pays off, if you can wait.

So the game plan is with the 4 cheeses, consume in staggered fashion.
Eat one after 2 weeks, next after 4, next after 6 and the final cheese will have 2 months fridge time.
Much past this point and I think it can turn. Whatever cheese stinks the most without rendering my bowel useless wins!

So the next batch of curds will be cooked this weekend to get the supply chain functioning...

Kopi Luwak

Welcome to the 3rd (and perhaps final) instalment of perthgluttony goes to Bali.

Today's topic Kopi Luwak. I'm sure you've all heard of the coffee bean that some strange cat eats, then shits out, then someone keen enough collects the turds, separates the still intact beans from the 'other stuff', then carries on the roast. Or more accurately and tastefully, something like this.

Anywho, we travelled to one of these such plantations in the pouring rain, so heavy that the unroadworthy van we gambled our lives on was aquaplaning like mad with receding visibility.

Once we arrived, about an hour and a half north of Ubud, we ran like we stole something from the van to this tiny little tin shed for shelter, where there was some bloke roasting the beans in a wok of sorts over hot coals. Very small batch so you get an idea of the operation they are running here.

The coffee itself could be sampled on site (as well as cacao, ginseng tea, tobacco, etc).
Some product...

Sitting here in a tin shed, pouring rain, sampling local tobacco, drinking local coffee, eating local cacao, surrounded by all sorts of content poultry and enclosed by tropical forrest, it must have been one of the best places on earth.

Cacao fruit...

Camembert - Stage 1

My maiden voyage into the world of cheesemaking is off to a decent start.
I source the required germs and gadgets from cheese links and using my diy sous vide immersion circulator got amongst it...

Without turning this into a cheesemakers guide (as I have no finished product yet), I'll attempt to explain the method.

Create starter
Place 1/4 tsp in a litre of UHT skim, heat and sit at 37-40 degs, till yoghurt. Place in fridge.

Make cheese
Bring 5lt whole milk to 37-40 degs (raw is ok too, I didnt have any), add 100ml starter + a pinch of penicillium and stir. Leave at temp for 45 min.
Add 2ml of rennet (diluted in 40ml of boiled then cooled water), stir, cover and leave for 30mins at temp.
Curd should be set.

Cutting curds
Into 20ml cubs, or as close of possible, leave undisturbed for 30min. Gently stir, sit 30min. Gently stir, sit 30min. Gently stir, sit 30min.

Hooping
Pour off half the whey, then gently portion among 4 hoops over draining tray. Turn after 10mins, 30mins, 3 hours, 5 hours, 8 hours. Keep in hoops overnight at room temp.

Salting
Drop cheeses into brine of 1 salt 4 water for 30min

Drying
at room temp till dry, bout a day or so.

Ageing
Put cheeses into covered container with draining tray. Keep some form of cold wetness at the bottom, like a frozen brick, making sure the cheese are not in direct contact with it. Need to be cold and humid. Turn daily and replace brick daily. 5 - 10 days should be plenty. The penicillium fluff will start to develop... This is where I am currently up to...

Fingers crossed.

Reminiscing about Vue de Monde

Menu Gourmand - SATURDAY 28TH FEBUARY 2009

AMUSE BOUCHE
Cold pressed heirloom tomato consommé served with a tomato tart, mackerel tartare, topped with baby basil
NV Ruinart Rosé Reims Champagne, France

RAVIOLO D’AVOCAT ET DE SAUMON
Open avocado raviolo of salmon with watermelon, pumpernickel and Clair de Lune oyster, smoked salmon and apple distillation
2007 Köfererhof Grüner Veltliner Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

RISOTTO AUX TRUFFES
Classically inspired truffle risotto
NV Sanchez Romate NPU Amontillado Jerez, Spain

-- BEST ON GROUND --
PAIN PERDU ACCOMPAGNÉ DE FOIE GRAS
French toast, green apple purée and foie gras with eight spice and jamon Serrano Gran Reserva
1977 Best’s Riesling Concongella Vineyard Great Western, Victoria

ÉCREVISSE À L’ORANGE
Marron, poached in an orange, Pernod, saffron sauce with smoked clams and micro fennel
2007 Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py Beaujolais, France

JUS AU VERJUS
Liquid verjus at - 8°C

DÉCLINAISON DE BOEUF
Four textures of beef; checkerboard of white polenta and beef shin, crispy chilli intercostal, confit of sirloin and flank, with pumpkin and yuzu stuffed baby squash

AGNEAU RÔTI ET RIS D’AGNEAU
Roast lamb with sweetbreads and Pedro Ximenez reduction
2003 La Perla del Priorat Clos les Fites Priorat, Spain

FROMAGE INSPIRÉ PAR DALI
Cheese traditional inspired by Dalí
2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne Épernay, France

SALADE DE FRUITS
Fruit salad

PARFAIT D’AMANDE AU NOUGAT
Almond parfait with nougat and flavours of the earth
2005 Ballandean Estate Sylvaner Late Harvest Granite Belt, Queensland

SOUFFLÉ AU CHOCOLAT
Chocolate soufflé with cardomon ganache and crème anglaise
NV Chambers Muscadelle Old Vine Rutherglen, Victoria

NOTRE SÉLECTION DE CAFÉS, THÉS, INFUSIONS ET PETITS-FOURS
A selection of coffee, teas, infusions and petits-fours

CHOCOLATS POUR SAVOURER A LA MAISON
Handmade chocolates to take home

Wow. 5 hours, 4 punters, 3 notches of belt pilfered, 2 many drinks, 1 great experience.

If it only happens once a year...

Its a good year, in this case Sterling Caviar. (My birthday of course).

For me the only way involves a fresh batch of blini's (Shannon Bennett style, no potato), with creme fraiche.
This is hard to beat. You get this insanely light, buttery blini, with the sharpness of the creme fraiche then the finish of seductivly salty deep deep rounded sturgeon love.

And why not chase those bad boys down with a glass of Pol Roger too? Oh and in keeping with the theme of ocean extravagence, some cray tails...

Bless.

Rumour has it the crays will be almost halving in price come end of Jan as bans and limits will be lifted. Here's hoping. The amount of meat in these ones above was unlike I've seen for a few years, these were from Geraldon and one / person was almost too much. (is this possible? No.)

Ubud - Spice markets and Tuna riding scooters

Well I dont really need to add much more.

The attempt to bring some spices back in to Aus was partially successful, we were allowed the vanilla beans and the cacao. However the saffron and long pepper were hastily removed from my grasp.
Tip - Bring in lots of vanilla. For $1 aussie I think I've got about $300 worth of beans on me, plus they are that much more pungent and loaded than the crap you source locally in Perth.

Plus the Tuna, why wouldnt you take a photo of this. How do you tell is a fish is fresh in inland Bali?
Make sure its covered in footprints and smells of fuel.

BTW, We actually ate this fish. The photo was taken sitting at the restaurant it was being delivered to.
So what did we order? Tonno!

Ibu Oka Babi Guling

After all the hype about this place in Ubud, Bali, I had to make the pilgrimage.
If its good enough for Bourdain its good enough for me kind of philosophy.

Well...

it was ok. I mean, I would go back, but I wouldn't run, rave or rant.
To be fair i think I arrived later than I should have, this was evident by the fact that not only was it easy to get a table at the piggery, but my pig was cold. Not a great sign at any eating outlet, particularly one with questionable hygiene as is.

I was convinced I would die a slow miserable death due to some form of swine hepatitis or the like, but I soldiered on. First came the pork; moist (cold) and well seasoned with the traditional Base Gede spice mix. Followed by the rice, drowned in fat, lush.
The next part of the pig to be consumed was the crackling, this was decent texture wise, under seasoned, something was missing, maybe the crispy liver? No the crispy liver was not missing it was next. Like a thick corn chip only blacker and tasting of livery blood. So not really like a corn chip.
Next, the blood sausage. The issue was the blood sausage. I must admin I DO love blood sausage, but I thought this 'thing' was a lung. It looked like a sundried sausage casing filled with the spongy shit from the quit smoking commercials, only bloodier. Sound good? No, I gave it to the local mutt next to me (hence questionable hygiene).

So all in all a plate of mixed fortunes, but for $3 aussie, not too bad.
The next day I saw this arrive at Ibu Oka, about 2 hours earlier than I was on my maiden voyage...

Oh baby. I was hungry again, watching the gentle (read savage) caress of the young lady (read cold blooded butcher), I was seduced by the aroma of melting fat and base gede, but didnt back it up.
The visual on this occasion was enough to partially restore my faith in Ibu Oka next time...

I wonder if I killed that dog...

The joys of 160°C

It has to be one of the most valuable tools a home cook can have in their arsenal. 160°C.

How else can you perfectly braise a lamb shoulder, finish a steak, finish crays, set a terrine, slow-roast a whole scotch fillet, goose, duck, chook...

People will always ask how this or that got so tender, so juicy, so unlike whatever they do, and the answer more often than not comes back to 160°C. Plus resting of course...

Xmas Goose

Took me long enough to find one, but Vince came through with the goods, a 3.3kg bird from the Barossa.... and 2.5kg's over livers for good measure.

My first time cooking goose, but based on my reading a pretty simple roast was all it calls for.
So washed, trimmed, seasoned and trussed she entered the oven at 220deg for about 30 mins, or until I could see some colour. Then dropped the heat to 160-170ish and finished her (based on size) for about an hour and a half. Tossing some par-boiled spuds in the fat pan about 40mins prior to lift-off was a stroke of genius.
Also the rest is critical with this bird (all birds), a good 30mins under foil... No shortcuts, she deserves better.

Accompanied with bread sauce pungent with bay, some giblet jus, some terrine'd stuffing made with liver, chestnut, cognac, sage, onion and stale bread plus those magic golden fatty potatoes.

Was a good feast, something I'll do every year i think.

Only improvements could be:
- Bigger bird
- Neck intact, in order to make a neck sausage stuffed with some gory pork product
- Foie Gras! Maybe I could source a foie gras bird after the pluck? (am I going to hell?)
- Mulled wine

Merry xmas.