Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Monday, February 22, 2010
Goose Liver Creton
0
No this is not an insulting name for someone, although you could be excused for using it for that.
This particular instance is the second addition to the pilgrimage of pig, Margaret River weekender.
I've never eaten anything like this before, not that i remember anyway, i think the end result will almost be like a paste / or spread... Again, leave it in the fridge for a few and see how she rolls.
The basis of this is a really gelatinous stock which you simmer onions, pork mince, goose livers, sage, cinnamon and clove in, until nearly all stock has gone. Then take off the heat and stir in about 10g or gelatine. Adjust seasoning. Get into mounds straight away and refrigerate. This is (what i imagine) pretty close to the kind of pate you would expect in the 1600's or the like, anyway i stand corrected there but it is definitely no frills. I'm thinkin lashings of it on some crispy toast washed down with a lightly chilled glass of woodlands chloe.
Who am I kidding I'll be so hammered the whole time I'll barely remember my own name, so I guess the final product will remain a mystery.


Looks awful in the pot, still looks awful in the fridge.
This particular instance is the second addition to the pilgrimage of pig, Margaret River weekender.
I've never eaten anything like this before, not that i remember anyway, i think the end result will almost be like a paste / or spread... Again, leave it in the fridge for a few and see how she rolls.
The basis of this is a really gelatinous stock which you simmer onions, pork mince, goose livers, sage, cinnamon and clove in, until nearly all stock has gone. Then take off the heat and stir in about 10g or gelatine. Adjust seasoning. Get into mounds straight away and refrigerate. This is (what i imagine) pretty close to the kind of pate you would expect in the 1600's or the like, anyway i stand corrected there but it is definitely no frills. I'm thinkin lashings of it on some crispy toast washed down with a lightly chilled glass of woodlands chloe.
Who am I kidding I'll be so hammered the whole time I'll barely remember my own name, so I guess the final product will remain a mystery.
Looks awful in the pot, still looks awful in the fridge.
Pork Neck, Foie Gras and Pecan Terrine
0
In anticipation of a long weekend of Margaret River Cabernet and Chardonnay drinking in said region an underpinning of rib-sticking, artery-bogging charcuterie is not only required but compulsory.
To kickoff this pilgrimage of pig I decided to use some leftover foie gras in the fridge, mix it up with some shredded braised pork neck and spices, then encrust in crushed pecans and goose fat... I have no idea what the end result will be like, I'll let it mingle in the fridge for a few days then we'll see. Anything with foie gras and pig participating cant be bad.


... and what does one do with leftover braised pork, especially when beloved partner is wondering why hours in the kitchen still doesnt yield anything to be eaten for dinner...? San Choy Bow of course!

To kickoff this pilgrimage of pig I decided to use some leftover foie gras in the fridge, mix it up with some shredded braised pork neck and spices, then encrust in crushed pecans and goose fat... I have no idea what the end result will be like, I'll let it mingle in the fridge for a few days then we'll see. Anything with foie gras and pig participating cant be bad.
... and what does one do with leftover braised pork, especially when beloved partner is wondering why hours in the kitchen still doesnt yield anything to be eaten for dinner...? San Choy Bow of course!
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Keller's Brisket Pastrami - The Reveal...
0
Lots of work in this one but what a result!


Not meant to look like a braised porcupine, but yes it does.
After 5 days in the cure, drain and discard the liquid.
Place in pot, completely cover with water, slowly bring to boil, place in oven (lid on with cartouche) for 4 hours at 140c.
Remove and place in fridge, allowing to completely cool in liquid. (Lid off, cartouche on)
Next day... Drain, pat dry and paint with molasses, then roll in crushed pepper, mustard seeds, coriander seeds, get in fridge till needed. This will keep for a week in fridge.
In this case it was needed instantly, in the form of a New York bistro sanger...

Just a very simple pickle, slaw and pastrami sanger. Gentleman friendly.
Delicious! Mildly spiced, peppery, briny, meaty, earthy, succulent, with a hint of anise, coupled with an incredible braised mouth feel. The hardest thing about this recipe is cutting the meat to serve it up, it just gives way.
Then as the missus leaves the house, the pig comes out... DOUBLE MEAT!

Nobody to blame but myself, sitting here as full as a state school feeling sorry for myself.
Not meant to look like a braised porcupine, but yes it does.
After 5 days in the cure, drain and discard the liquid.
Place in pot, completely cover with water, slowly bring to boil, place in oven (lid on with cartouche) for 4 hours at 140c.
Remove and place in fridge, allowing to completely cool in liquid. (Lid off, cartouche on)
Next day... Drain, pat dry and paint with molasses, then roll in crushed pepper, mustard seeds, coriander seeds, get in fridge till needed. This will keep for a week in fridge.
In this case it was needed instantly, in the form of a New York bistro sanger...
Delicious! Mildly spiced, peppery, briny, meaty, earthy, succulent, with a hint of anise, coupled with an incredible braised mouth feel. The hardest thing about this recipe is cutting the meat to serve it up, it just gives way.
Then as the missus leaves the house, the pig comes out... DOUBLE MEAT!
Nobody to blame but myself, sitting here as full as a state school feeling sorry for myself.
Blood Plum Soufflé
0
(Throwing down the gauntlet in my oven's direction) C'mon FOOL think you can cook a souffle? HUH?!?
Ehem. I guess some background would help, my oven (AKA Tits on a bull), is shit. Pick the right corner and you could either make a sorbet or fire some ceramics. So the elusive souffle was never really considered.
They turned out pretty good, slightly too much colour, this was at 180c for about 14 mins, 12 mins is probably the ticket.
15 : Love; Oven
Ehem. I guess some background would help, my oven (AKA Tits on a bull), is shit. Pick the right corner and you could either make a sorbet or fire some ceramics. So the elusive souffle was never really considered.
They turned out pretty good, slightly too much colour, this was at 180c for about 14 mins, 12 mins is probably the ticket.
15 : Love; Oven
Camembert - Second Tasting...
0
1 month on and the wait paid off, big difference in flavour.
This time less of the sharpness more of the creaminess you come to expect from a Camembert.
Still pretty solid pate as you will see from the snaps but definitely heading the right direction... Still not as stinky as I'd like, perhaps I should be careful what I wish for...
This time less of the sharpness more of the creaminess you come to expect from a Camembert.
Still pretty solid pate as you will see from the snaps but definitely heading the right direction... Still not as stinky as I'd like, perhaps I should be careful what I wish for...
Monday, February 8, 2010
Clutching Victory from the Jaws of Defeat
0
Me and my EM6910 have had an on/off relationship for years. Mainly due to an undocumented 'feature' of the 'weak as piss' group head collar installed as factory on these 'Cafe Series' units.
Now I acknowledge that if I want great coffee at home I should purchase an Isomac or the like, but I dont have an isomac or the like.
The issue is the collar 'gets shitter' over time and pulling a shot equates to losing pressure, grouds spilling out into your glass, general unhappiness.
First attempt at a happier relationship, full service. New everything, including 'found respect'.
This didnt work, or at least it worked as well as a chocolate teapot.
I should mention the interim fix is wasting lots of coffee until the metallic internals expand, coupled with aggression upon fitting the basket in place (in effect promoting long term damage), you may get a decent shot.
Until now...


Perfectly engineered piece of cardboard installed under the factory group head seal to 'pad out' the fault = temporarily repaired relationship.
Or you could buy the official part that Sunbean have released to combat this issue. Yes thats right, you pay to fix the fundamental issue they have now acknowledged.
Cardboard for me.
Now I acknowledge that if I want great coffee at home I should purchase an Isomac or the like, but I dont have an isomac or the like.
The issue is the collar 'gets shitter' over time and pulling a shot equates to losing pressure, grouds spilling out into your glass, general unhappiness.
First attempt at a happier relationship, full service. New everything, including 'found respect'.
This didnt work, or at least it worked as well as a chocolate teapot.
I should mention the interim fix is wasting lots of coffee until the metallic internals expand, coupled with aggression upon fitting the basket in place (in effect promoting long term damage), you may get a decent shot.
Until now...

EM6910 +

Dodgy collar +

Or you could buy the official part that Sunbean have released to combat this issue. Yes thats right, you pay to fix the fundamental issue they have now acknowledged.
Cardboard for me.
Keller's Brisket Pastrami
2
So I'm meant to purchase Wagyu for this, I dont even know where I'd start to look for a wagyu brisket. Such a fatty cut of meat anyway and coupled with the waygu breeding techniques, is there any meat left? Or is it all marble? I'm sure it would be sensational, but money and time prevents, so this time (like o so many other times) it was Vince to the rescue. Enter rolled Mondo brisket.

Pretty simple cure consisting of garlic, peppercorns, star anise, coriander seeds, salt, brown sugar, tarragon vinegar, yellow mustard seeds, cayenne, ground ginger, up to a boil in a couple litres of water... Allow to cool completely.

Find (and clean) some sort of non-reactive (read non-metallic) vessel which can be covered and fits in the fridge. Add hunk of flesh, cover with COOLED liquid and pop in the fridge for a week... Or so.

If this is the last post you see on this topic (or this blog) it means I didnt have enough salt in my cure and I'm recovering from salmonellosis.
God speed.



If this is the last post you see on this topic (or this blog) it means I didnt have enough salt in my cure and I'm recovering from salmonellosis.
God speed.
Prawn and Broadbean Gratin with Mornay
2
Last nights answer to the 'what can i have for dinner' question.
Ingredients; Prawns, broadbeans, lemon thyme, leftover champ, baby spinach, nutmeg and Pignolet's mornay sauce...

Next time... More prawns, less mornay, maybe some smoked paprika or saffron injected somewhere... Quivering quail eggs, that would be lush.
Ingredients; Prawns, broadbeans, lemon thyme, leftover champ, baby spinach, nutmeg and Pignolet's mornay sauce...

Next time... More prawns, less mornay, maybe some smoked paprika or saffron injected somewhere... Quivering quail eggs, that would be lush.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
El Bulli Reservation 2010...
2
(Just to set the scene, I've been waiting 10 months for the new season booking window to open, my phone calendar reminds me on new years morning to email el bulli...)
Hello,
I will be travelling from Australia in July from the 5th until the 15th.
I am hoping to get a table for 4 people at any time during this period.
Thanks in advance.
(One month later... to no suprise)
The demand has again surpassed our limited possibilities of reservations for one season and we regret not to be able to fulfill more requests.
You can revise the situation during the season, near your available dates, to see if it is possible to find some solutions more when we confirm all the reservations 10 days in advance.
See calendar at www.elbulli.com (reservations)
2011 RESERVATIONS
We do not have information about 2011 season at this moment but we never start the management until we have finished the season before.
You will find information at www.elbulli.com (reservations) from December 2010.
Thank you very much for all your interest.
Sincerely yours,
Luis Garcia
ElBullirestaurant
Cala Montjoi - 17480 Roses
Hello,
I will be travelling from Australia in July from the 5th until the 15th.
I am hoping to get a table for 4 people at any time during this period.
Thanks in advance.
(One month later... to no suprise)
The demand has again surpassed our limited possibilities of reservations for one season and we regret not to be able to fulfill more requests.
You can revise the situation during the season, near your available dates, to see if it is possible to find some solutions more when we confirm all the reservations 10 days in advance.
See calendar at www.elbulli.com (reservations)
2011 RESERVATIONS
We do not have information about 2011 season at this moment but we never start the management until we have finished the season before.
You will find information at www.elbulli.com (reservations) from December 2010.
Thank you very much for all your interest.
Sincerely yours,
Luis Garcia
ElBullirestaurant
Cala Montjoi - 17480 Roses
Monday, February 1, 2010
Candied Genoa Figs
2
Fig season, what a marvellous time of year. However as much as people love figs you do tend to see more either squashed on the ground, rotting on the tree or eaten by birds as they have not been picked when ready. So why not proactively save these little gems and steal the bastards from whoever cultivates?
One such occasion took place over the weekend when attempting to lend a hand to some less than fortunate figs, Genoa figs (little black ones), a rarity in my parts... Broad daylight, well dressed individuals, up on tip toes pilfering till hearts content, at which point I hear laughter. The 'owners' of this loveless abode who subject a tree (which was probably planted in the 40's by some migrant who would potentially be rolling in ones grave), to sheer hatred, had the audacity to giggle. At which point I asked them 'Do you mind?' which could have been interpreted 2 ways in hindsight, to which the response was 'No'. So we continue to pilfer.


Drain, rack, cover, 4 days.
One such occasion took place over the weekend when attempting to lend a hand to some less than fortunate figs, Genoa figs (little black ones), a rarity in my parts... Broad daylight, well dressed individuals, up on tip toes pilfering till hearts content, at which point I hear laughter. The 'owners' of this loveless abode who subject a tree (which was probably planted in the 40's by some migrant who would potentially be rolling in ones grave), to sheer hatred, had the audacity to giggle. At which point I asked them 'Do you mind?' which could have been interpreted 2 ways in hindsight, to which the response was 'No'. So we continue to pilfer.
Net result? Candied Genoa Figs.

Simmer in white wine vinegar and sugar syrup, with a cheeky vanilla bean, 2 hours.

Coq-up au Vin
0
Inspired by the british larder, but as unequipped as a Ken doll, I began tackling coq au vin a la sous vide.
This started really well, froze the olive oil and red wine to assist in not borking my food saver...

Above: Chicken marylands, minced shallots, frozen red wine and balsamic vinegar, cloves, frozen olive oil (yes they are love hearts), garlic, thyme, rosemary, bay, coriander seeds...
Add all of the above into vac pack and Bob's your uncle, until the red wine melts and gets sucked up into the vacuum internals and starts gurgling, rendering the whole exercise frustrating and useless.
Thanks god someone invented cooking with traditional methods I proclaimed between expletives.
So into a bowl, covered in gladwrap, into the fridge for a day. Cutting edge technique, stay with me...
Anyway the saviour for this basket case was throwing the 'patted dry' marylands into a searingly hot pan to colour up, beurre noisette et al.
Once golden all over, oven at 160 cel covered for 50 mins, then rest.
Remaining marinade reduced to a glaze with honey to baiste the meat while resting.

Phew.
This started really well, froze the olive oil and red wine to assist in not borking my food saver...

Add all of the above into vac pack and Bob's your uncle, until the red wine melts and gets sucked up into the vacuum internals and starts gurgling, rendering the whole exercise frustrating and useless.
Thanks god someone invented cooking with traditional methods I proclaimed between expletives.
So into a bowl, covered in gladwrap, into the fridge for a day. Cutting edge technique, stay with me...
Anyway the saviour for this basket case was throwing the 'patted dry' marylands into a searingly hot pan to colour up, beurre noisette et al.
Once golden all over, oven at 160 cel covered for 50 mins, then rest.
Remaining marinade reduced to a glaze with honey to baiste the meat while resting.

Camembert - First Tasting...
0
Roughly two weeks since the cheeses were wrapped, so time to have a look.
Wasnt expecting much, just wanted to make sure it looked, smelt and tasted vaguely like camembert. Which it did.

Good coverage of mould, nice solid texture inside, plus the expected nose of a camembert, wet sock.
I kept the cheese at room temp for an hour or so before tucking in expecting it to soften slightly, didnt really soften slightly.
So the next tasting will be 1 month of age, hoping to see a gradual trend of creamier, smellier results as time passes by... Really happy with this little guy, great texture, tasted quite sharp, almost acidic. Apparently expected.
Wasnt expecting much, just wanted to make sure it looked, smelt and tasted vaguely like camembert. Which it did.

Good coverage of mould, nice solid texture inside, plus the expected nose of a camembert, wet sock.
I kept the cheese at room temp for an hour or so before tucking in expecting it to soften slightly, didnt really soften slightly.
So the next tasting will be 1 month of age, hoping to see a gradual trend of creamier, smellier results as time passes by... Really happy with this little guy, great texture, tasted quite sharp, almost acidic. Apparently expected.

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